Fonctionnement du mécanisme d'une montre - Maison Alcée

How mechanical watches work: mechanism explained

Ever wondered how a mechanical marvel transforms gears and springs into the precise dance of time? In a world intrigued by instant digital precision, the intricate choreography of mechanical watch movements remains a seductive mystery. This article unveils the artistry behind ticking hands and whirring rotors, blending horological heritage. Whether you’re a watch enthusiast or simply curious, you’ll discover how these intricate mechanisms measure time with fascinating precision and remarkable technical artistry.

A story of movement

The measurement of time is an ancient quest that has always captivated humanity. From early sundials and hourglasses to water clocks, civilizations across the world have sought to grasp the passage of time. These early instruments slowly gave way to more refined inventions—reflections of technological progress and cultural need. It was within this ever-evolving pursuit of precision and reliability that mechanical watches emerged. Marked by the poetry of the wheel, the charm of hand winding, and the rhythm of the movement, the birth of mechanical watch innovation laid the foundation for our modern relationship with time.

Sundial, The palace Museum, Chine
Sundial, The palace Museum, Chine
Hourglass
Hourglass
©Musée du Temps, Besançon
Clepsydre (water clock)
Clepsydre (water clock)
© Mairie de Rousillon, Vaucluse

Les origines mécaniques de l’horlogerie

Ueli Bellwald, La Tour de l’Horloge à Berne
Ueli Bellwald, La Tour de l’Horloge à Berne, Berne 1983 © Wikipedia
Mechanical weight-driven clockmaking de l’horloge de l’église San Geremia, Italie
Mechanical weight-driven clockmaking de l’horloge de l’église San Geremia, Italie
© Didier Descouens

The history of mechanical watchmaking stretches back several centuries, with its roots in late 13th-century Europe, where humans engineered the first weight-driven clocks with mechanical regulators. It was a radical innovation—an unprecedented leap in the conquest of time. These early public clocks, often installed in church towers or city halls, stood as towering feats of engineering for their era.

Medieval Astronomical Clock in Prague
Medieval Astronomical Clock in Prague

Their development was driven by the need to regulate daily activities and prayer schedules in monasteries. Though rudimentary, these medieval mechanisms laid the foundations for modern mechanical watches. Massive in size, with large wheels and simplified dials, they required exceptional craftsmanship to construct and maintain.

Berthoud, Enamelled pocket watch, 1760
Berthoud, Enamelled pocket watch, 1760
© Morteau, Musée de l’Horlogerie du Haut-Doubs, Thierry Malty

Over the centuries, horologists refined their techniques, leading to increasingly compact and precise designs. The 16th century saw the invention of the mainspring, which enabled the creation of the first portable mechanical watches. Though less precise than tower clocks, these early hand-wound timepieces marked a major milestone—people could now carry time with them.

Patek Philippe, Wristwatch sold in 1868 to the Hungarian Countess Koscewicz.
Patek Philippe, Wristwatch sold in 1868 to the Hungarian Countess Koscewicz.
© Patek Philippe

The mechanical movement, based on a system of wheels, gears, and springs, evolved into the beating heart of horology. This paved the way for the elegant pocket watches of the 18th century, often adorned with intricate decoration. In the 19th century, the rise of the mechanical wristwatch brought time even closer to the individual, blending function with personal style.

Thus, the origins of the mechanical watch are deeply rooted in Franco-Swiss history—a reflection of the ingenuity, persistence, and artistry of horologists across the ages. These early innovations shaped the movements we continue to admire today, whether automatic or manual, always anchored in the poetry of precision and the beauty of the regular rhythm of passing time.

Miniaturising movements of the watch

Miniaturisation of watch mechanisms - Maison Alcée
Thierry Ducret’s qualifying test for the M.O.F. competition
Thierry Ducret’s qualifying test for the M.O.F. competition
© Thierry Ducret

The miniaturisation of movements marked a turning point in the evolution of horology—transforming monumental clocks into timepieces that could be held in the palm of a hand. This process began in the 16th century with the invention of the mainspring, enabling the creation of the first pocket watches. Though still bulky by modern standards, they represented a revolutionary leap: the first time could be carried.

Over the centuries, watchmakers refined their mastery of miniaturisation, making mechanical movements ever more compact and precise. The integration of tiny wheels, springs, and other components into such confined spaces demanded a remarkable level of precision and expertise. Each element had to be meticulously crafted to fit seamlessly within the watch case.

Pendant watch, 1780
Pendant watch, 1780
© Morteau, Musée de l’horlogerie du Haut-Doubs, Thierry Malty

By the 18th century, pocket watches became more refined and decorative, thanks to increasingly sophisticated mechanical watch movements. These timepieces often featured intricate dials and elegantly shaped hands—expressions of horological savoir-faire. Hand winding remained essential, connecting the wearer to the rhythm of the movement and the passing of time.

Persée Azur timepiece Maison Alcée
Persée Azur luxury clock
© Maison Alcée
Rolex women’s manual-wind watch in 14-carat yellow gold
Rolex women’s manual-wind watch in 14-carat yellow gold
© 1stdibs

A true revolution came in the 19th century with the invention of the wristwatch. This required yet another level of miniaturisation to ensure comfortable wear on the wrist. Watchmakers continued to innovate, shrinking the size of movements while improving their reliability and precision.

Persée Azur timepiece Maison Alcée
Persée Azur luxury clock
© Maison Alcée

Advancements in materials and manufacturing techniques also played a vital role. The use of stronger metals and new production processes enabled the creation of more durable and accurate mechanical movements, whether manual or automatic. Modern mechanical watches are the culmination of centuries of refinement and innovation in the art of movement miniaturisation.

At its core, this journey is a story of technical progress and artisanal mastery—making time not only portable, but deeply personal. At Maison Alcée, this experience is brought to life: assemble your own mechanical watch movement and discover the elegance of traditional hand-wound mechanics. The movement developed by Maison Alcée’s team of expert watchmakers relies on the very same components used in classic mechanical watches—only the scale has changed.

First automatic movement, John Harwood
First automatic movement, John Harwood
© Atelier Lesoon

The emergence of automatic movements

The emergence of automatic movements marked a true revolution in the history of watchmaking. Unlike hand-wound mechanical watches, automatic mechanical watches harness the kinetic energy generated by the motion of the wrist to wind the mainspring. This innovation, which began in the early 20th century, simplified the daily maintenance of mechanical timepieces.

The first patent for an automatic movement was filed in 1923 by British watchmaker John Harwood. His mechanism used a pivoting rotor—also called an oscillating weight—to automatically wind the mainspring. This rotor spins on a central axis with each motion of the wrist, transferring the energy needed to drive the movement.

Automatic movements, also known as automatic calibers, quickly gained popularity thanks to their convenience. They eliminated the need for daily hand winding, offering a more seamless and modern experience. Over time, these calibers became a hallmark of high-end mechanical watches.

John Harwood's patent, issued in 1924.
John Harwood’s patent, issued in 1924.
© Office européen des brevets

Watchmakers continued to refine these mechanisms, making automatic movements increasingly reliable and precise. Thanks to advancements in materials and micromechanical engineering, these calibers have become more efficient and more compact— while improving their longevity.

Today, automatic watches stand as the culmination of decades of innovation. They embody the heritage of movement and the elegance of self-winding functionality—offering watch enthusiasts the perfect balance of tradition and technology.

Santos watch with automatic mechanical movement Cartier
Santos watch with automatic mechanical movement
© Cartier
Santos watch with automatic mechanical movement Cartier

The rise of quartz movements and digital watches

The rise of the quartz movement marked a turning point in the history of watchmaking. Introduced in the 1960s, this revolutionary mechanism uses a quartz crystal to regulate time. When exposed to an electric current, the crystal vibrates at an exceptionally stable frequency. These vibrations are then converted into electrical impulses that drive the watch, ensuring unmatched accuracy.

The first quartz watches, such as the Seiko Astron launched in 1969, demonstrated a level of precision far beyond that of traditional watches. Quartz calibers require minimal maintenance—mainly periodic battery changes—making them a reliable and convenient alternative. Their accuracy and ease of use quickly made this new technology a popular choice among consumers.

Special 50th Anniversary Limited Edition, Seiko Astron
Special 50th Anniversary Limited Edition, Seiko Astron
Special 50th Anniversary Limited Edition, Seiko Astron
© Seiko Watches
Special 50th Anniversary Limited Edition, Seiko Astron


In parallel, the 1970s saw the emergence of digital watches. These models, equipped with LCD (liquid crystal display) or LED (light-emitting diode) screens, offered a clear and direct reading of time. Many also featured added functionalities such as chronographs, alarms, and calendars.

Quartz movements and digital watches represented a major technological leap. They enabled large-scale production at lower costs, making precise timekeeping accessible to a broader audience. These innovations transformed the watch industry, which adapted by integrating new technologies while continuing to celebrate the traditional craftsmanship behind mechanical watches. Today, quartz calibers and digital watches reflect a harmonious blend of technical precision and modern functionality—proof that the evolution of horology is as much about embracing innovation as it is about honoring timeless traditions.

First digital-display watch, Hamilton Pulsar
First digital-display watch, Hamilton Pulsar
© Les rhabilleurs

The resurgence of mechanical watchmaking

The resurgence of mechanical watchmaking has been a remarkable phenomenon over recent decades. After the widespread enthusiasm for quartz and digital watches, horology enthusiasts have rediscovered the charm and craftsmanship of mechanical movements. This revival is largely driven by a renewed appreciation for the complexity and tradition inherent in mechanical mechanisms.

Mechanical timepieces, powered by either manual winding or automatic movements, offer a tangible connection to the passage of time. Each winding creates a personal interaction with the watch, making every second feel more meaningful. Swiss calibers, such as those produced by the renowned manufacturer ETA, are often found at the heart of these watches, epitomizing the pinnacle of watchmaking engineering.

The calibers of mechanical watches, frequently visible through sapphire crystal case backs, reveal the mesmerizing movement of wheels and hands. This transparency allows enthusiasts to observe and understand the intricate inner workings of their timepiece—an experience no quartz watch can provide.

ETA automatic movement 2893-2 GMT, Suisse
ETA automatic movement 2893-2 GMT, Suisse
© Eta.ch

The resurgence of mechanical watches is also fueled by a desire for durability and longevity. Unlike quartz movements that require batteries, mechanical watches can function indefinitely with proper care. They are often cherished as heirlooms, passed down through generations as precious legacies.

Rolex Daytona platinum watch with sapphire crystal case back, model 126506
Rolex Daytona platinum watch with sapphire crystal case back, model 126506
© The Watch Observer
The Grand Seiko SBGP017
The Grand Seiko SBGP017
© The Watch Observer

This return to mechanical watchmaking reflects a yearning for authenticity and tradition, while celebrating the ingenuity and craftsmanship that transform each mechanical caliber into a living work of art.

The different types of movements

Persée Azur timepiece Maison Alcée
Persée Azur luxury clock
© Maison Alcée

Watches primarily house two types of movements: mechanical movements and quartz movements. Each offers distinct characteristics and unique advantages.

Mechanical movements, the most traditional, are divided into two categories: manual winding mechanical movements and automatic mechanical movements.

9F quartz movement, Grand Seiko
9F quartz movement, Grand Seiko
© Grand Seiko

Quartz movements, introduced in the 1960s, use a quartz crystal that vibrates at a constant frequency when powered by an electric current. These vibrations are converted into electrical impulses that move the hands with great precision. These watches are renowned for their accuracy, typically losing less than one second per day, and require minimal maintenance, usually just a battery change every one to two years. Unlike mechanical movements, quartz movements do not have visible mechanisms, but they are often more affordable and lighter.

Manual mechanical movement, H. Moser & Cie
Manual mechanical movement, H. Moser & Cie
© Chronotempus

Manual winding movements require regular winding via the crown. By turning the crown, the mainspring is wound, storing the energy needed to power the timepiece. This process must be repeated daily or every two days, depending on the watch’s power reserve, which can range from 24 to 48 hours—or even longer for some high-end models. The ticking of the hands and the visible movement of the wheels captivate watch enthusiasts with their complexity and artisanal beauty.

Automatic mechanical movement, A. Lange & Söhne
Automatic mechanical movement, A. Lange & Söhne
© Chronotempus

Automatic mechanical movements, on the other hand, feature a rotor that spins with the motion of the wrist, winding the mainspring without manual intervention. This type of movement blends mechanical tradition with modern convenience, requiring less handling. The power reserve of automatic watches is similar to that of manual watches, generally between 40 and 80 hours. The automatic mechanism ensures the watch keeps running as long as it is worn regularly.

Grand Seiko, Heritage, SBGV205
Grand Seiko, Heritage, SBGV205
©Les Rhabilleurs

Each type of movement offers specific advantages. Mechanical movements, whether manual or automatic, are prized for their complexity and heritage. In contrast, quartz movements stand out for their unmatched precision and practicality, providing a reliable and economical solution for everyday wear. By understanding these different types of movements, you can better appreciate the art and science of watchmaking and choose a timepiece that perfectly suits your preferences and lifestyle.

The components of the movement

The movement, whether manual or automatic, is an engineering marvel composed of several essential components, each playing a crucial role in the precise functioning of the watch. These parts work together to ensure the smooth operation of the calibre, the heart of the movement.

The mainspring is the first key component. It stores the energy needed to power the gear train. During manual or automatic winding, this spring tightens, accumulating energy that is then gradually released to drive the mechanism.

The gear train is a series of wheels that transmit energy from the mainspring to the escapement. These gears reduce the speed of the mainspring, allowing for a more controlled release of energy. The rotation of the gears is guided by ruby bearings—synthetic precious stones that reduce friction and increase the movement’s durability.

The escapement is another major component. It releases the mainspring’s energy in controlled small amounts, driving the balance wheel. The balance wheel, which oscillates regularly, acts as the time regulator of the movement. Its oscillations are measured in frequencies, often expressed in vibrations per hour (VPH). A typical balance wheel oscillates between 18,000 and 36,000 beats per hour, ensuring precise timekeeping.

Persée Azur timepiece Maison Alcée
Persée Azur luxury clock
© Maison Alcée
Power reserve indicator on this dial, Grande Complication, A. Lange & Söhne
Power reserve indicator on this dial, Grande Complication, A. Lange & Söhne
© Lange & Söhne

The power reserve indicates how long a watch can run once wound. For manual movements, this requires regular winding, usually every one to two days. Automatic watches, thanks to their rotor, generally maintain a similar power reserve without frequent manual winding, as long as they are worn regularly.

Persée Azur timepiece Maison Alcée
Persée Or luxury clock
© Maison Alcée

The hands on the dial are driven by the gear train. Their movement is regulated by the escapement and balance wheel, allowing precise reading of hours, minutes, and seconds.

The mechanism of a timepiece is a harmonious assembly of components. From the mainspring to the balance wheel, each part plays an indispensable role in ensuring the watch’s precision and reliability.

The concept of complications in watchmaking

In watchmaking, a complication refers to any additional function of a watch beyond the display of hours, minutes, and seconds. Complications are sophisticated features that showcase the ingenuity and technical expertise of watchmakers. They add not only functionality but also aesthetic and practical value to mechanical watches.

Astronomical watch
Astronomical watch
© Besançon, Musée du Temps, Pierre Guenat
Leroy watch, 1904
Leroy watch, 1904
© Besançon, Musée du Temps, Pierre Guenat

Common complications include chronographs, perpetual calendars, moon phases, minute repeaters, and power reserve indicators. Each of these functions requires additional mechanisms integrated into the watch movement.

The chronograph, for example, is a complication that allows the measurement of precise time intervals. It is often used by athletes and professionals to time events. This complication includes extra hands and pushers to start, stop, and reset the stopwatch.

Astronomical mechanism, Strasbourg Cathedral
Astronomical mechanism, Strasbourg Cathedral
© Karine Faby

The perpetual calendar is another remarkable complication. It automatically displays the date, accounting for months with 28, 30, and 31 days, as well as leap years. This complex mechanism requires extremely precise engineering to function correctly without manual adjustment for a hundred years.

The power reserve indicator is a very practical complication that shows how long the watch can run before needing to be wound. It is especially useful for manual-winding mechanical watches, which must be wound regularly according to their autonomy.

Moon phases display the different lunar phases throughout the month, adding a poetic touch and visual complexity to the watch. This complication is often appreciated for its aesthetics as much as for its function.

Minute repeaters, one of the most prestigious and complex complications, allow the watch to chime the hours and minutes on demand. This mechanism requires extreme precision and exceptional watchmaking expertise; few watchmakers are able to include this complication in their timepieces.

Master Control Power Reserve, Jaeger-LeCoultre
Master Control Power Reserve, Jaeger-LeCoultre
© Les rhabillleurs
Grande Lange 1 Moon Phase, A. Lange & Söhne
Grande Lange 1 Moon Phase, A. Lange & Söhne
© A.Lange & Söhne
Credor Node Spring-Drive Minute Repeater
Credor Node Spring-Drive Minute Repeater
© Monochrome

Beyond these complications, there are many other functions watchmakers can add to a watch. Each requires a unique combination of wheels, springs, and gears, adding complexity to the watch’s mechanism. Watch complications not only reveal complex technical mastery but also practical and aesthetic enhancements that transform the watch into a masterpiece. Understanding these complications allows a deeper appreciation of the level of detail and craftsmanship needed to create exceptional watches.

Written by Nicolas T.

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